protein

Miso

Also called fermented soybean paste

In a nutshell

Miso is a fermented soybean paste that enhances soups and sauces with umami.

Miso is a Japanese paste made by fermenting soybeans with salt and koji, a mould grown on rice, barley or the beans themselves. It ranges from pale, sweet white miso to dark, robust red miso, and tastes salty, savoury, nutty and gently sweet with a deep, earthy, fermented funk.

Cooks love miso because a spoonful adds instant depth. It is the heart of miso soup, but it also glazes fish and eggplant, enriches butter and dressings, and adds a savoury backbone to marinades, stews and even caramel.

Flavor profile

warm2

sweet2

pungent3

bitter0

floral0

earthy3

citrus0

smoky0

Aroma: savory, nutty, fermented

Good to know

Origin: Japan

Forms: paste

Season: Available year-round as a fridge staple.

Nutrition: Quite high in salt, so it is used in small amounts to add flavour. Miso is made from soy, and some types contain barley or other gluten grains.

Storage: Keep opened miso tightly covered in the fridge, pressing a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface to limit air. Because it is salty and fermented, it keeps for many months, often a year or more, and darkens slowly over time, which is normal. It can be frozen for longer and stays scoopable thanks to the salt. Throw it out if you see fuzzy mould or it smells sharply sour or off.

How to use miso

Soup's Secret Weapon

Stir miso into soup off-heat to keep its flavors vibrant.

Miso as a marinade

Combine miso with mirin. Enzymes in the miso slowly break down proteins, so the meat softens.

The science of miso

Koji mould produces enzymes that break soy proteins into free amino acids, especially glutamate, the main source of umami. The longer miso ferments, the more these flavours build.
Starch-splitting enzymes in koji turn grain starch into simple sugars. This gives white miso, which ferments for a shorter time, its sweeter, milder taste.
Dark red miso gets its colour from the Maillard reaction between sugars and amino acids during long fermentation. That also creates its richer, more roasted, savoury flavour.
Glutamate in miso works together with inosinate and guanylate in fish, meat and mushrooms. The combination amplifies umami far more than any one of them alone.
Boiling miso drives off delicate aroma compounds and dulls its fresh, fermented fragrance. Stirring it in off the heat keeps the flavour bright.

How to choose miso

White (shiro) miso is mild and sweet, ideal for dressings, soups and baking; red (aka) miso is saltier and bolder, great for braises and glazes; mixed (awase) miso is a good all-rounder. Check the label for soybeans, koji, salt and grains, with few additives. Unpasteurised miso, often sold chilled, has the freshest flavour.

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Substitutes for miso

Swap	Amount	What changes
Soy sauce	1 tsp per 1 tbsp miso	Gives salt and umami but none of the body; add a little tahini for thickness.
Doenjang	1:1	Korean fermented soybean paste; funkier and saltier, so start with less.
Tahini + soy sauce	2 tsp tahini + 1 tsp soy per 1 tbsp miso	Nutty, creamy and salty; a good fix for dressings and glazes.
Fish sauce	use a quarter as much	Strong umami and salt for soups and marinades; not vegan.

What goes with miso

Tofu. Miso's salty umami seasons mild tofu, as in miso soup.
Cod. Miso's salty umami glaze caramelizes on lean, flaky cod.
Salmon. Miso's salty sweet umami seasons and glazes salmon's oily flesh.
Eggplant. Miso's umami amplifies eggplant’s savory side.
Rice Vinegar. Miso's umami-rich paste mellows the acidity of the vinegar.
Scallion. Scallions add a sharp freshness that contrasts nicely with miso's savoriness.
Sesame Oil. Sesame oil dissolves aroma compounds in miso, intensifying flavor.
Garlic. Garlic's allicin adds a sulfurous sharpness to miso's savory umami.
Mushroom. Miso's glutamate and mushroom's guanylate multiply each other's umami.
Pork Belly. Miso's salty umami caramelizes on pork belly's fat.

Every pairing for miso →

Mistakes to avoid

Boiling miso reduces flavor and nutrition.
Miso dissolves best in warm liquids.

Ideas for tonight

Make miso soup with tofu and seaweed.
Use as a glaze for roasted eggplant.
Blend into a seafood butter sauce.

Miso: questions

What is the difference between white and red miso?

White miso is fermented for a shorter time with more rice, so it is sweet and mild. Red miso ferments longer, often with more soybeans, and is saltier, darker and more intense.

Does miso go bad?

Miso keeps for many months in the fridge because of its salt. It may darken or change slightly in flavour, but it is only spoiled if you see mould or it smells clearly off.

Should you boil miso?

It is best not to. Stir miso into soups and sauces at the end, off the heat, to keep its fresh, fermented aroma.

Is miso gluten-free?

Not always. Miso made only from soybeans and rice is usually gluten-free, but barley miso (mugi) contains gluten, so check the label.

What can you use miso for besides soup?

Glaze salmon, cod or eggplant, whisk it into salad dressings, mash it into butter for corn or bread, or stir it into stews and marinades for savoury depth.

Is miso vegan?

Miso itself is usually made from soybeans, grains, koji and salt, so it is vegan. Some ready-made miso soups add dashi made with fish, so check the label.

What does miso taste like?

Miso is a fermented soybean paste that enhances soups and sauces with umami. Its strongest notes are pungent, earthy, with an aroma that is savory, nutty, fermented.