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Meat, fish and doneness · 4 min read

Braise tough cuts slowly

The short answer

Shoulders and shanks are full of collagen, which stays chewy when cooked hot and fast. Hold them in liquid at 85 to 95°C (185 to 205°F) for 2 to 4 hours, and the collagen melts into gelatin that makes the meat tender and moist.

Simmer instead of boil

A hard boil tightens muscle fibers and squeezes out moisture, so the meat turns stringy even while submerged. Keep a bare simmer with a bubble every second or two, or put the covered pot in a 150°C (300°F) oven.

Why some cuts start out tough

Muscles that work hard, such as shoulder, shank and cheek, are packed with connective tissue. A pork shoulder needs about 3 to 4 hours to turn tender. A lean cut like loin is done much sooner.

Test doneness with a fork

A hard boil is only a few degrees hotter than a simmer, so it barely speeds up the collagen. What it does do is tighten the fibers and dry the meat while you wait. A braise is done when a fork slides in with no resistance, not when a timer goes off.

Test yourself

Questions from the interactive lesson, with the answer and the why.

A beef chuck roast is still chewy after 1 hour in the braise. What should you do?

Keep it at a gentle simmer; collagen needs hours. Chewy now means the collagen hasn't melted yet.

What went wrong? You boil a pork shoulder hard for 90 minutes to save time. It comes out dry and stringy, yet still tough in places.

The hard boil dried the fibers before the collagen melted. Boiling squeezes out moisture faster than it melts collagen.

Fill the blank: Lean cuts like chicken breast or pork loin ___ in a long braise.

Lean cuts like chicken breast or pork loin dry out in a long braise. With little collagen to melt, hours of heat only squeeze the fibers dry.

True or false: The best way to cook a tough cut is quickly over high heat.

False. Slow, moist heat melts collagen, and fast, hot cooking leaves it chewy.

Why is chicken breast a poor choice for a 3-hour braise?

It has little collagen to melt, so it dries out. Without collagen to melt, hours of heat only squeeze out moisture.

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